Once again, thank you for visiting my Organic Hair Color Review blog, where I take a hands-on, unbiased approach to dissect, examine, and review organic, non-toxic, and ammonia-free hair color lines. For those of you who don’t know, I’m Melanie Nickels, master hair colorist and a ranking member & examiner for the American Board of Certified Hair Colorists, as well as the owner of the first organic & non-toxic salon in Southwest Florida, Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples. I DO NOT SELL HAIR COLOR.
Chromatics is the latest color line on the market by Redken Laboratories, which was founded in 1960 by an American actress named Paula Kent. Paula dealt with frequent style changes in her career, and she was extra sensitive to many of the products that her hairdressers and make-up artists were using at that time. With the intent of changing the way these hair products were being used, she partnered with her hairdresser and formed Redken. Starting with only three products and an intensive education program for hairdressers, Paula and her business partner went out to change the world of hair care. By 1965, Paula had full ownership of the company. In 1993 Redken was purchased by L’Oreal and is now a global leader in hair care products, based in New York City on 5th Avenue. They sell the Redken product line in about 50 countries as of this writing.
Chromatics was launched in March of 2012. It was, and is, promoted as “The Haircolor Breakthrough”, and a “Prismatic Permanent Color. Zero Ammonia. Zero Odor”. It is also marketed as leaving the hair “2X Fortified”, meaning that by using Chromatics hair color it will leave the cuticle fortified and account for 2X less breakage when using 20 volume Oil In Cream Developer and Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo vs. uncolored hair treated with a non-conditioning shampoo (per their company website). They also claim “100% Gray Coverage, Flawlessly”. Chromatics features a broad range of shades, which allows an experienced, talented colorist to custom blend colors that are a perfect fit for the client.
The technology behind how Chromatics fortifies the hair (per the company) is to surround the hair with protective oil (using the ODS+ Protein Extract Technology), propel the long-lasting color pigments & protein extracts deep into every strand of hair, and then 2X fortify it, leaving behind brilliant, multi-dimensional color. Redken claims 100% client comfort, 0% ammonia, 0% irritating odor, 100% gray coverage, with 48 amazing shades creating multi-dimensional 4D color results.
I was not about to miss the class offered at this years Premiere Orlando Hair Show on this one! I was anxious to hear how Redken was going to backpeddle and present this non-ammonia color line as great and wonderful since the color that they have had on the market for all these years is one that is very high in ammonia and ppd’s and other chemicals. It intrigued me as I wondered how they would promote this without contradiction to their current lines.
Well, the class was actually one of the better ones I attended at the show. The educator was very good, and seemed to present good facts and information along with models and formulas for “real hair” scenerios instead of smoke and mirrors for the show. Redken is promoting Chromatics as the latest and greatest cutting edge technology and as another option to the ammonia based colors. I agree, except that other companies have been using these technologies like no ammonia and oil delivery system for at least 18 years. That being said, it has been cutting edge and it’s about time more companies and stylists are finally catching on!
The educator did a great demonstration of how oil and water separate and that the oil in the ODS colors pushes or propells the hair color and then traps the color and oil into the hair giving great coverage, lasting color and condtioned hair. He did also mention that MEA is used in place of ammonia and actually admitted (to my shock) that it is less aggressive than ammonia….WHAT, OH OH……REALLY…..better tell all those that have been running around teaching that MEA is bad and doesn’t rinse out of the hair, and dries out your ends!!! That is a whole separate blog topic that we can tackle, but I’ve been battling that one out with most other well known and respected educators and chemists in the industry. Let me just point out for now that MEA has been used in Shades EQ and I think this has been a favorite of most stylists for a very long time and used to gently freshen and condtion the ends of hair when coloring. And, I have been working with a permanent ODS color line for 6 years and have not seen my clients hair getting dried out at all….quite the opposite in fact.
Ok, back to the Chromatics color. One of the most interesting things about this line is that they have a Clear color that will lift the hair and will lift other color. They said that clear and 20 vol developer can be used instead of a bleach cap, it can be used alone to “lift highlights”, and is great for breaking the base.
So, I purchased the Chromatics by Redken color, with my own money, and took it to my salon in Naples, Florida to put it to the test. I did my own hair with the Chromatics color and did a base breaker with the clear on my co-worker on one of my very few days off (yes, I work on my days off…in the salon). We video taped the process of doing the base breaker so you can see how it worked. Please excuse the absense of my face and the presence of my dogs as I told you, I had color on my hair and it was a “day off” from the salon so my family joined me in the fun.
Overall, I felt that the color worked well, covered gray no problem, & did not irritate my scalp. There was no smell, it was easy to mix(equal parts) and had a good working consistency. I don’t know the % of MEA, but they also use m-aminophenol and then toluene 2.5-diamine and resorcinol for pigment.
For my co-workers base breaker, I used clear with 20 vol and processed at room temp for 12 min. She did experience itching. She has wheat allergies, but I do not see any wheat listed in the ingredients so she may have been experiencing sensitivity to the peroxide, because there is no ppd’s or pigment and no listed fragrance.
On a scale of one to five (5 being highest) I rate it a 3.75.
If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to post them here, or contact me directly.
Hope you enjoy!
Melanie
The Hair Color Review by Melanie Nickels 
Hi so glad to have found your website. I have been using Redken’s Color fusion 7Av and 9Av for a base some highlights some low-lights with the EQ 09AA and 09RB
I am getting too light the Goldie Hawn look so I tried 10N for low-lights. not much change I want darker low-lights. Maybe I need a darker base but I am at least 50% grey my original color is medium brown with some red highlights, I have light colored skin so the color I have now I am pretty washed out. Thank you so much. I am an Esthetician and can buy color once a month at Salon Celetric. Thanks so Palma
Thanks for the question, Palma.
The darker base has nothing to do with the low lights. If you want darker low lights, you need to darken the low lights. You could darken the base, you could darken the low lights, you could darken the base AND the low lights. Typically if I do low lights to darken a blond I use a level 8.
Good luck,
Melanie
Thanks for the question, Palma.
The darker base has nothing to do with the low lights. If you want darker low lights, you need to darken the low lights. You could darken the base, you could darken the low lights, you could darken the base AND the low lights. Typically if I do low lights to darken a blond I use a level 8.
Good luck,
Melanie
Hi – Just stumbled upon your website and was hoping that you could help me. My stylist has been using Clairol haircoloring on my roots for a number of years now. The past number of months – (root touchups every 4 weeks) the color either comes up to dark or if she lightens it a little the part area fades within a week and a half and you can see lots of grey and fading. I have been looking on the internet at comments from different people using different products. I have seen Matrix, Paul Mitchell and Redken. The last time my stylist touched up my roots she had to run some color down to the ends because it was faded and she wanted it to look even with the roots. Well this past coloring made my hair so dry I had hair coming out and breaking for 4 weeks. I’m so nervous about what to try next. I have thick, wavy course hair and have quite a bit of grey. My sister wanted to try that Garnier Olia – no ammonia but from the comments that I have read – caused severe, crunchy, dryness of hair on quite a number of people. I’m a medium brown with golden running thru it – no highlights done just what the sun did from the summer. Please any suggestions would be great. I have 2 more weeks to go for a root touch up but my roots look horrible now. I don’t want to put a chemical on my hair before 4 weeks. Would like to know if you would suggest Paul Mitchell Permanent color with low ammonia, Redken with low ammonia or Matrix with low ammonia or no ammonia. I would like to see my color hold for at least 4 weeks which I have not had for quite a few years now with the clairol product. Thanks for helping me – HR
Sorry to hear about your issues, HR, but let’s see if I can help a bit:
There are soo many different options that you can do. This should not be a problem, if your stylist is going to use “ammonia color”, use Shades EQ or deposit only color on your ends. I personally would use a non-ammonia hair color like Organic Color Systems or Chi or Matrix Colorinsider, etc. Any of those will certainly help you in this situation. Or, you can even use traditional deposit only hair color on your roots and leave it on longer to get gray coverage. If you have more questions, let me know.
Hope that helps,
Melanie
Hi Melanie – Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I’m goint to test out another salon and the girl is suggesting Matrix – Color Synch – how do you feel about that line of Matrix products? I will ask her if they have the Color Insider by Matrix. Between the two which gives better coverage and will last the longest? Thanks for your help!
I believe the Color Sync is just a deposit only line. So, the Colorinsider is a permanent color line, so it would be better for what you are trying to achieve.
Good luck,
Melanie
Hi, I currently am using Revlon colorsilk Burgundy dye on my hair. I previously (april last year I did the bleaching) was growing out a bleached top half that I then dyed a light ash brown… The color obviously continued to fade every time but my ultimate goal was to attempt at growing out my hair Virgin… By leaving the growth alone but the bleached part faded too much and the roots looked terrible so I finally gave in and dyed it all a medium brown. So now I have on the top half less than an inch of root, about 3 inches that was Virgin and dyed so that’s darkest.. And the longer bleached growth that won’t take the color quite as well. I had been using color silk medium golden chestnut brown since October of last year and everything was mostly matched. Beginning of janurary I decided I wanted burgundy color..so I am now using their burgundy shade…which has resulted in roots true to the box color, (which i love) the 3 inches the darkest Burgundy, and the longest length that had been the part touched by bleach sort of matching the roots more. I refuse to use bleach again on my hair as its terrible..and I really just want everything to match without having to just be brunette(basically by going back to the medium golden chestnut color) I am wondering if I could use the clear the way you described to lighten the darker area up to sort make the overall color match before once I recolor with a burgundy color. I wanted to be as descriptive as possible ….I hope I didn’t confuse you, I just don’t want to be walking around with a huge noticeable line of demarcation.. Especially since I’m doing such a risky color. Help please!
There are different kinds of color that need to be used on different areas on your hair.
A procedure like this is difficult enough to do in the salon, so I’d never recommend that you try and do it at home.
Seek out a professional in your area. It will be well worth it.
Melanie
If I could afford that I would. Guess I’ll just be stuck till it grows out. I’ve been cutting bleaching highlighting my own hair for over 13 years. It’s a personal hobby and something i love to do. Really would have appreciated some pointers.
maybe just some brief details so I know what to research further online. I am currently unemployed and simply cannot afford to go to a salon especially for how much this would cost for them to do. (I have never gone to a salon, my last professional haircut was when I was 14, I’m 28) If maybe you could give details on what different dyes to use on the different areas that would be greatly appreciated! Till the day I’m lucky enough to attend cosmetology I’m on my own with research! So glad I found this, it wasn’t easy to do a search on Google on this your page is great!! ☺
Sarah, it’s not that easy.
It takes years and years of training and practice to do what I do. I can’t just type you a one sentence explaining how to correct the situation that you are in. I would recommend this: if you are going to be coloring your hair yourself, keep it simple.
I went back and re-read your original post, and your question was about “Clear”.
That product is a professional product and you most likely wouldn’t be able to purchase it anyway.
I do a fair number of “color corrections” in my salon. They are VERY expensive.
If I were you, Sarah, I would just keep it simple until you are in a better financial situation.
Melanie
Hi- I have just recently been looking into getting my hair re-coloured, but I was hoping for a more natural product, at the very least, ammonia free. My hairstylist says that she uses Redken’s Chromatics as an alternative, and I’ve been doing some research on it, but I can’t find any information the levels of PPD in the regular hair colour, not just the clear lift. Do you have any information on this? Thanks so much.
Emily R.
Sorry, but no, I don’t. The company does not share that information with us. But it is still a better option.
Great question!
Melanie
Hi I was hoping you can help me. I have a hair dresser who is using Redken Chromatics on my 100% gray roots and she is using a level 7. I travel for work quite a bit and I sometimes get caught where I can’t get a touch up and would like to do it myself. I have a friend who can get me the Redken, but i don’t know how to mix it. Can you tell me the levels and and the products to buy so I can fill in between hair salon appointments. I would really appreciate it and it would help me out a lot. My hairdresser says to use a touch up kit and i don’t want to do that…Jane
Thanks for the question, Jayne.
It’s a professional product line that is supposed to be sold through professional salons only.
Thus, it would be inappropriate to instruct unlicensed people on how to use a product such as this, not to mention a huge potential liability issue.
I would go back to your friend and ask her for help.
Good luck to you,
Melanie
My name is Emily Webster, I am 27 and have blonde hair. I have decided to take the plunge, and I will become a redhead next month. I have heard good things about Redken, but I also looked up info about Aveda, and they use oils and things from plants. I also read your article about Redken, and I am not sure which one I should go with, and I want what is best for my hair. Should I go with Redken, or Aveda? I really need your help on this one.
Hi Emily,
Well, going from blond to red typically you will be using a deposit only color. Thus, either line would be fine. Aveda still has ammonia in their line, but going from blond to red you would be using deposit only hair color, so any of the lines should be fine.
Good luck!
Melanie
Hi Melanie!
Would like your opinion and appreciate your work by the way! I have been using haircolor for over 23 years and have never had a problems until the last 6 months. My hair dresser has been using Provann (?sp) hair color for the last six months with a very strong developer. I have developed a consistent skin rash and constant itching, even between every 5 week colorings, that will not heal. I have now decided to switch salons and coloring products. I have been looking for Salons that use Matrix Colorinsider or Redken Chromatics. Is there any other products you would suggest and/or which of these two is less irritative? I am living on Scalpacin and hydrocortisone cream to get through each day! I appreciate your feedback!
Itchy in North Florida,
Beverly B
Sorry to hear that, Beverly!
Of those two, Matrix Colorinsider is the better of the two.
I’ve had good luck with Organic Color Systems, Chi Permanent Shine, and Schwarzkopf Essensity. I’ve used all of those at the Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples, Florida.
Try any of those.
Good luck to you,
Melanie
Hi Melanie,
Just wondering on the Revlon Chromatics ingredient lists. You mention above that the clear product has no ppds listed. Is that true for all the colour ranges in this line? My hairdresser has been using the Chromatics line with me for over a year and I was interested in knowing the ingredients and specifically that they don’t use ppd.
Chromatics is actually made by Redken and not Revlon.
It does not have PPD’s listed on their ingredient list.
Good luck,
Melanie
Hi Melanie,
I have been using Color Fusion (2/3 5NN and 1/3 4GR) and felt my ends were getting too light. I would like to go darker. I really like Color Fusion because it throws so much color that sometimes it looks like I have highlights. If I were to stay with Color Fusion, what mixture would you recommend to go darker? Otherwise I was also considering Chromatics. Would that be a better option for me? btw I’m 90% gray. I recently tried Wella Koleston and am unhappy with the color and the dullness.
Drop them down a level. Use 4NN and 4GR.
Good luck to you and thanks for the question.
Melanie
To attain something equivalent to the 4NN and 4GR, what colors would you recommend using Chromatics Beyond Cover? Thanks – Joanne
REDKEN COLOUR GELS 9NW WHAT COLOUR MUST I USE IN CHROMATICS TO GET THE SAME EFFECT
I would say probably an 8NW if they have it and you may have to add a little 7. But probably the 8NW will be fine.
Hi! I recently came across several postings that said to apply coconut oil, or wet the hair before coloring. Would this interfere with the color development/lightening process at all? Thanks for your help!
You can apply color to clean, damp hair.
Melanie
Hi Melanie,
I have been trying to go from a level 4 Redken product to a level 5 with level 6 or 7 highlights(correct term?) for some time now. I’m brown eyed, olive skinned and I live in Texas so I’m tan a lot. I think my hair color and skin tone blend instead of compliment but I can’t get any hairstylists to help me correct it. They say I can’t go lighter since I’ve already been colored a level 4. I’ve decided to do it myself(I colored my hair at home for 15 years before I went to a salon) and I wondered if you would allow me to contact you or (if not) give me tips on going a shade lighter.
I find it hard to believe that hairdressers would tell you that you can’t go one level lighter with your hair color.
Basically all you have to do is sit outside in the hot Texas sun in the summer and you’ll get what you want.
It will fade out.
The reason your having problems is that you are trying to do highlights using color. That doesn’t work.
I would seek out another experienced salon professional to help you achieve your goals.
Good luck to you,
Melanie
oh my god. This was so educational. I regret to say my salon works with Redken for years not but MEA I’ve just came across- is horrible.
Which is more unfortunate is I have redkens powerful 6rr Chromatics in my hair and really wanna do it the healthy way to take it out (and Im definitely seeing the dry ends on my hair after cutting off so much.. Didn’t make sense til now) . What would your take on it be?
How would you lighten it to go blonde? Should I lighten with another brand? Go for matrix?
I have a cosmo prof near and would love your input on what color line I should stick to once I get this red out!
Thanks so much
shannon
I’m a little confused on your question. Malibu has a new color remover that you might want to check out. Sounds like you are going to have to use a lightener, though. Bleach is pretty much bleach, some with ammonia some without.
What are the precautions and guidelines of the chramatics haircolor
Follow the manufacturers instructions.
Hello! Former Hairstylist, here! I’m looking to darkening my hair a few levels. I currently have heavy highlights. I would like to be a level 6/7 warm dark blonde. With Chromatics being 100% gray coverage, would it completely cover my highlights? I actually would like some dimension, so I don’t mind my highlights coming through a little. Am I making sense? Lol I was thinking of using 7NW. What do you think? Thanks!!!
Thanks for the questions.
That should work out fine. What I typically do is brush some color through like balayage after you apply the roots and then at the shampoo bowl wet it and wash all the color through for 5 minutes.
Let me know how it works for you.
Melanie
After reading your review on the Redken Chromatics line, I am interested in a review from you for Ion Color Brilliance. Do you know anything about this product? It is sold at Sally Beauty and has no PPD or ammonia. I can’t use chemicals on my hair any longer due to hypersensitivity. I’d really like to put an end to toxic chemicals…… My beauty operator wants to use Redken Chromatics, but this still has toluene… a big NO NO for me.
Have you ever heard of Ion Color Brilliance? My sister lives in Florida (Cape Coral) and successfully used this product several times already. She is very gray and it totally covered her grays. It looks wonderful, natural and seems to last more than 4 weeks. Since it doesn’t come with oil in it, she mixes in either argan oil or hibiscus oil when she is stirring up the color. It comes in tubes and isn’t drippy or messy either. It’s different from other products in that the colors come out darker, probably due to the formuation, so you have to mix 1/2 and 1/2 (light and darker colors) to make the overall color lighter.
I’d appreciate your feedback, as I an considering the purchase of this color very soon.
Thank you,
Sandy
I don’t really know anything about that line.
Sorry that I can’t help 😦
Melanie
Melanie,
I found your website very professionally written. I have been having my hair colored for the past 5 years. My hairdresser has changed salons 3 times.He has used Eveda semi-permanent color. He now has been using Chromatics for the past 2 years. I have never had my hair colored until I started to get some noticeable grey hairs. I liked my natural color which is a chestnut brown. It had great natural highlights of gold and red. My hairdresser was using a 4W, but it was darker than my natural hair so he later used 5W. 3 months ago the color did not take on all the short, new hairgrowth and the grey really was noticeable. This time he used 5NW because he thought it might cover grey better. This seems dark also with not as many nice highlights, and not all the grey was covered again. This time the grey strands that are colored have a stripe of grey. I don’t know what to do to get close to my natural color and cover the grey. My hairdresser said the lighter brown I go, the less it will cover the grey. I’m afraid my hair will keep getting darker. I do not want to bleach it. Also, he leaves the color in for about a half hour. Would sitting under the dryer help? The salon also uses BES Hi Fi color (Italian). Do you think that might be good to try? Do you have any suggestions on my problem? I really do not know anything about hair color. I leave it to the professionals so I would appreciate your input. Thanks so much
Suzanne
Suzanne,
I think the problem is in the stylists’ formulation.
Putting a level 5 on brown hair is going to be dark brown.
Hair color, even up to a level 8, can give complete gray coverage.
I think trying another color line (as mentioned) may be appropriate.
Melanie
Melanie,
How long should the Chromatics be left in to cover the grey regrowth so that the hair will not become too dry? Also, would freshening the hair all the way to the ends be helpful every few months, or would this contribute to dry hair?
Suzanne
Suzanne,
Follow the manufacturers instructions. It should be 35-45 minutes on the roots, and I usually refresh the ends with a lower volume developer.
Melanie
Question,had organic color put on my hair..IT would not cover the gray,a very light base color..I think she used 6 and 7 ! Then she tried 7 and 8 .SO I had her go back to the Redkin Chromatics using the formula I had on my hair before.A gal I went to before used to use it all the time. 11/2 oz 8N & 1/2 oz of 7N. 20vol del..She put me in that dome thing that is a dryer for like 20 min and then I sat for like 15 more minutes. with out the dryer.The roots turned orange and gold..And the roots to the head were kinda of gray and white.IT looked like it did not take the color right.I have use this formula for like 6 months or more before the organic one..The other gal never put me under the dryer at all ever..And it was a very pretty color with my high lights I have..NOT THIS TIME..She told me she thought it was the dryer that did it..Is there a right and wrong way to mix this stuff? I Need some help please..
Redken Chromatics does not go under the dryer.
How long should it be left on ?And there a special way to mix this. The 11/2 oz 8N & 1/2 oz of 7N. 20vol del.? My other gal left it on 35 min I would really like to know how long it should be left on.This last time with the dryer I have had more hair lost..Thanks for the follow up and the answer for me..I really appreciate it..:) And would that have made it that weird color.IT has never did that before with this formula ..
My salon used the Redken Chromatics 6N oil based cream and I had a TERRIBLE scalp and breathing reaction. She had used the gel before with no adverse reaction but they ran out and she used the cream. I understand the PPD is likely cause but I didn’t see it listed on the cream ingredients list. Do you know if it’s in the gel or cream or both? I wish you were in SC as I am very afraid to try color again. I read that Wella has a new product Koleston Perfect Innosense but can’t find anyone local who carries it. I ran across your site and hope you can offer some insight! Thanks!
Both products have PPD in them, so it’s unlikely to be that. I would say just stick with the gel if you didn’t have a problem with that.
Good luck,
Melanie