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ABCH, American Board of Certified Hair Colorists, Ammoina, Beth Minardi, blond hair, box color, boxed color, brown hair, Chi, Chi Ionic permanent shine, Chromatics, curly hair, Davines, Essensity, Goldwell, hair color, hair color expert, hair color professional, Hair Color Review, hair dye, Inoa, L'Oreal, Matrix, MEA, Melanie Nickels, Minardi, Minardi Color, Non-ammonia, non-toxic, Raw Curls, Raw Hair Organic Salon, Raw Hair Organics, Redken, Rod'z Grooming For Men, Schwarzkopf, Tom Dispenza
Thank you for visiting The Hair Color Review Website!
For those of you who are new, or have never visited before, I’m Melanie Nickels, the Editor-In-Chief of The Hair Color Review website. For those of you who don’t know me, I’m sure you would like to know who I am and why I’m qualified to write these reviews, so here is my quick (albeit incomplete) bio:
I have been a stylist for right about 17 years. I am the founder of Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples, Florida. It was the first organic/non toxic salon in all of South Florida. I still work about 50-60+ hours a week behind-the-chair there. I am the founder / creator of Raw Hair Organics and Rod’z Grooming For Men, both natural & organic salon quality products that are non-toxic, yet work just like traditional chemical based product lines. This coming June, I will be launching Raw Curls, a professional quality natural / organic line made specifically for “Curlies”. For more info on both lines, visit the website at www.rawhairorganics.com . I DO NOT SELL HAIR COLOR.
I am not only a ranking member of The American Board of Certified Master Haircolorists, I’m also an exam evaluator and educator for the organization. In addition to graduating from cosmotology school, I also have college degrees in Business Management and Accounting. I am internationally trained, was part of Inter Coiffure, a Broadway stylist on the hit show “42nd Street”, and certified by many companies way too numerous to mention here, but the likes of Deva, Quidad, Curlisto, and OCS. I am the Editor-in-Chief of another review website, Organic Hair Product Review.com which is at www.organichairproductreview.com . Later this spring, it will be merged with this review site. I teach nation-wide, including at shows like Premiere Orlando in 2013, ISSE Long Beach 2014, and The ABCH Energizing Summit in 2011 & 2012. I’m also teaching several classes, including hands-on workshops and a lecture at the ISSE show in Long Beach, California, January 2014, and a curly hair cutting 3 hour workshop at Premiere Orlando in June 2014. I’m also a contributing member of the elite Curly Hair Artistry group here in the United States. In addition to all of that, as I stated before, I still spend about 50-60 hours a week, every week, behind-the-chair doing hair color in my salon in Naples, Florida. I have worked with many, many hair color lines on the market, both ammonia and non-ammonia based. That is my simplified, basic bio. I would highly encourage you to follow me on Twitter, as I post there quite frequently and post a lot of things that I don’t post here…things that happen in my normal day of hair coloring. My Twitter handle is @RawHairOrganics (Melanie Nickels).
Today we are reviewing another non-ammonia hair color line. This one is Schwarzkopf Essensity. First, some history and background about the company and it’s founders:
Scwarzkopf is part of Henkel AG & Company.They are based in Dusseldorf, Germany. The company is about 112 years old, and has many, many facets. They include Dial soap and Purex laundry detergent.
For the sake of brevity, we are only going to focus on the Personal Care segment of their business, and more specifically, Schwarzkopf. They sell professionally to the trade, and focus on a “Two-Way” relationship with stylists and themselves as a company. They pride themselves on providing expert education, and exceptional customer technical support. (although they did not return any of my calls/emails/faxes about supporting my classes on non-ammonia hair color using the Essensity line as one of the colors the students got to work with. So the expense of buing the color was paid out of my own pocket. They also did not give out information on the percentages of the ingredients used like MEA etc.) As of January, 2014, Schwarzkopf has entered into an agreement in the U.K. to aggressively market some of their hair products, by means of sponsoring a daily prime time television show similar to “The View”, which we have in the United States.
More specifically, Schwarzkopf Essensity is their first try at a product in the permanent “Ammonia-Free” oil-color category, and utilizes phytolipid technology, in an effort to attain “real” color results, with a natural intensity and softness. I commend them for their effort! They use natural ingredients whenever possible, which is a great thing. I did not see the use of any organic ingredients at the time of this writing, which is about September of 2013 (that’s not to say that might not have changed by the time that you are reading this). They’ve made a concentrated effort to use renewable, naturally-derived ingredients instead of synthetic ones whenever possible. Their label claims they are free of ammonia, odor, silicones, paraffin/mineral oil, parabens, formaldehyde derivatives, alcohol, and artificial fragrances. The Essensity color line also uses a replacement for PPD’s as pigment and does not have any wheat in it. 🙂 From what I could find, only one of their related shampoos has sulfates, and I’m not sure why. I could not find an explanation for this. That being said, Schwarzkopf created a hair product line to go along with the color line, called Essensity Care. The first segment is Color & Repair, which is geared toward chemically over-processed and damaged hair. The second segment is Color & Moisture, geared toward dry, coarse hair. There are about 4-5 products in each segment of this line. Another interesting thing is that I found on the company website that in 2013 they did a haircolor test in 84 salons in Germany and 90 salons in Spain, with 1500 different color applications. The key numbers are these: 93% of the stylists were satisfied with Essensity, and 87% would recommend it to a fellow stylist. So, roughly 9 out of 10 stylists liked it in their 2013 test. Not bad (but biased, I’m sure). However, 1 in 10 had scalp irritation. That’s bad…but still not terrible.
One thing I always look at when considering a hair product company is their philanthropic endeavors. I like to see companies that are making billions of our hard-earned dollars doing something other than lining their pockets with it. As far as Schwarzkopf (or Henkel), I found that they do support a project called “Shaping Futures”, which helps to introduce disadvantaged youth around the world to the hairdressing profession. They do this with volunteer hairdressers (I assume ones that purchase Schwarzkopf products). In 2013, their North American sales alone topped $17,000,000, and they were very happy with these numbers (according to a report I found on the Financial Times website from January), and I think it’s safe to say they are making money in the U.S. That was the only philanthropic endeavor that I could find related to any of Henkel and / or Schwarzkopf organizations.
Now, let’s talk about my use of the actual Swarzkopf Essensity hair color.
I purchased the product, with my own money, without any discount, and took it to the Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples, Florida, that I founded in 2007. Here’s what I found in my experience:
Schwarzkopf Professional Essensity
No Ammonia, Silicones, or Parabens, Paraffin/mineral oils, Formaldehyde derivatives, or Alcohol, Wheat-free
-Oil in cream enriched with Grape Seed oil, natural Ectoin, and natural Bees Wax
-Uses a special series of filtering processes for the water : “Pure Water”
-Uses “AMEA Technology”: this is a combination of 2 non-ammonia alkalizing agents:
- AMP – Aminomethylpropanol (another PH Adjuster like MEA)
- MEA-Monoethanolamine
-Uses Toluene 2-5 Diamine Sulfate (TDS) instead of PPD’s
-Contains Resorcinol
**I was unable to find out the percentages of these ingredients
-Colors more opaque, leaving a band.
-Good coverage
-Fades out quicker in ends and not as shiny as others
Up to 4 levels of lift
Great High lift blonds (but color creeps up hair shaft lifting off of scalp area as processing so have to back and brush down onto scalp again)
Color Mixed 1:2 and process room temp 30-45 min
Decent color selection , level numbering system similar, but tones different…confusing. I like to know is it, neutral, gold, copper, violet etc. more straight forward with the underlying tones in order to formulate.
.0=Nature
.00=Nature Plus
.14 , .2, .31, and.2=Cedar
.45=Bamboo
.55=Honey
.62=Havana
.67=Oak
.68=Teak
.77=Autumn Leaf Copper
.75=Autumn Leaf Copper Gold
.87=Autumn Leaf Red Copper
.888, .889, .8=Autumn Leaf Red
.19 and .99=Autumn Leaf Violet
–
Lightening System:
Free from: artificial fragrances, artificial colorants, silicones, PEG’s, parabens, formaldehyde derivatives
Uses Potassium Persulfate and Sodium Persulfate instead of ammonium persulfate
Lightener have to mix powder with cream and says not to use more than 18 vol.
Lightener mixed .5 oz (15g) tube cream + .7 oz (20 g) 1 powder pack + 1.18 oz (35g) developer
8 vol for 2-3 levels of lift
18 vol for 3-5 levels of lift
Process room temp 30-45 min
Got good lift with 18 vol, but it swells and gets super puffy!!
Overall, I think this is a good option for a non-ammonia, PPD-free hair color line. It has very clean ingredients including no wheat, gives good gray coverage, has great high lift blonds and a lightening system, & processes at room temperature. The thick consistency is easy to work with, and good for those that are used to color lines such as Framesi that are thick with a heavy dye load. As you will see in my video, the high lift blonds ( or color with 38 vol developer for that matter) creep up the hair and off of the root making it necessary to go back after applying and brush the color back down unto the scalp. That is kind of strange, but I can deal with it……just good to know so you don’t apply and walk away. Color selection is minimal, but sufficient to work with. Results are just a little flat or not as shiney as some other lines. I have not had anyone have any adverse reactions to this color so that is a positive.
I give this color line a rating of 4 on my scale of 1-5.
Thank you for joining me once again and taking the time to read my Schwarzkopf Essensity Color Review. I hope you find this information helpful.
As always, we are looking to help people be gorgeous and green!! 🙂
Cindy Prentice said:
As a stylist for almost 28 years i have used a lot of color brands. I myself haven’t been able to use “traditional” color on my hair in years due to extreme welts and sores on my scalp during and after. I’m not sure what I’m allergic to but suspect peroxide or ammonia. For the past few years I have used a product I found online that doesn’t bother my scalp at all. It covers my grey and overall I was happy with it, until I realized my hair breaks before it can grow?? I used it on my friend once and she said her hair was brittle after. It’s called Palette by Nature and says it’s made of 50 percent organic ingredients, no ammonia and an extensive list of chemicals it doesn’t have. Since reading your site i was wondering if you could have a look/review at this product and see with your knowledge in ingredients if I’m missing a “bad” ingredient that is making my hair brittle. Otherwise, I am looking into Matrix mainly because of your review and will try it to see if I’m allergic and how my hair is after. I haven’t checked your salon site yet but was wondering what hair color product you use and obviously recommend for your ‘extremely allergic’ clients.
organichairproductreview said:
I’m sorry to hear of your condition.
I will look into Palette by Nature.
As far as color lines, I use in my salon, the Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples, Florida, Organic Color Systems, Schwarzkopf Essensity, and Matrix Colorinsider primarily.
Good luck to you, and subscribe to this blog for new reviews that might be helpful to you.
Melanie
Cindy Prentice said:
Thanks so much.
I checked out Organic Color Systems website and it doesn’t look like they ship to Canada (where I am), too bad because that’s one I would love to try. I will try Matrix and Schwarzkopf.
Great idea subscribing to this blog, then I’ll be up on the latest in less toxic hair color.
Thanks again for your time
Ann said:
Dear Melanie,
First, thanks for your reviews, they are so educational and helpful.
I’m in my first trimester of pregnancy, and desperately trying to find some hair color which is ok to use for pregnant women (of course after first trimester). Do you think this Schwarzkopf Essensity color is safe or would you recommend it for using during pregnancy? Or do you have any information which brand from Europe is most suitable for pregnant women (since I live in Europe).
And my second question do you know anything about Keune so pure line? If you have time could you review it.
Thank you in advance, and please excuse any mistakes since English isn’t my first language 🙂
Best regards,
Ann
organichairproductreview said:
Congrats!
Schwarzkopf Essensity should be fine, but I always recommend that you DISCUSS IT WITH YOUR DOCTOR FIRST.
I know about Keune So Pure, but I’m not familiar with it yet and have not removed it.
Kris Park said:
Dear Melanie,
Your website is so informative and has helped me do extensive research on selecting an ammonia free at home hair color product. Thanks so much. I’ve only been using ammonia free or organic hair color for about a year now, in salons and also at home in between salon visits. The most recent venture after reading your Matrix Color Insider review, was to try it myself. I found that everything you said was true (no odor, thick and easy to apply, no irritation) and the color is spot on, even with my own mix using equal parts of 6N and 7NW. The only drawback here is that there is more pronounced hair loss than with other lines, and it seems to be falling out by the root, not breaking. I was wondering if you’ve had any issues with this, and could the cause be the oil based product clogging the cuticle? Other organic hair color has caused my scalp to itch and I find that the oils cause pimples on my scalp as I have a tendency to have oily hair anyway. I did not experience these problems with the Matrix line, but, I’ve never experienced hair loss like this before. Any thoughts?
Thank you.
organichairproductreview said:
No, I have not experienced any of that.
Melanie
Rene said:
Thank you for reviewing these color lines, I find your information extremely helpful. I can’t wait to read your review on GOLDWELL NECTAYA. I’m switching to ammonia-free color services and would also like to know which demi and semi lines are your favorite.
Thanks,
Rene
organichairproductreview said:
GREAT!
The ammonia-free hair color lines that I use can be used as semi, demi, or permanent, since they are all Ammonia-free.
That’s the beauty of it.
My favorites are Organic Color Systems and Matrix Colorinsider at the Raw Hair Organic Salon in Naples, Florida where I work.
Thanks for the question!
Melanie
Cat said:
Hi I have just come across your blog as im searching for a new haircolour to try that doesn’t use ammonia or have the other ‘nasty’ ingredients like ppd etc. I have read quite a few of your reviews but am a bit overwhelmed with all the information. Have you posted an entry that summarises the key finding/ingredients from each review?
Also, have you heard of Original & Mineral (O&M) and if so would you consider doing a review of their haircolours? Thank you.
organichairproductreview said:
NO, I have not published a summary.
Basically, you pick any of the non ammonia hair colors. There are only small variances between them.
I have heard of O&M but have not done a review yet.
Thank you for the questions,
Melanie
Ziva plutchok said:
Hi Melanie,
Thank you so much for your informative website and blog on hair colors.
I have been using Iona for the past few years and it’s ok but I feel like color fades rather quickly.
After reading your blog I am looking for an ammonia free product only and ingredients that are natural and more gentle on the hair and scalp. My numbers are 4 and 4.7.
One salon I went to has only Schwarzkopf and the other has only matrix color slide.
Which lasts longer and looks more natural? What do you recommend?
Also, I used to use the kerestase no rinse ampule after the color, but I’ve been recommended to switch to the Schwarzkopf brand because it’s stronger and better. Do I need to use the smoke to protect the hair after coloring? And which do you recommend?
Thank you so much,
Ziva
organichairproductreview said:
The Matrix and the Schwarzkopf are very comparable.
I tend to lean toward the Matrix as it seems to last.
It is important to use sulfate free and properly balanced shampoo afterward in order to keep and protect the color in your hair.
Good luck!
Melanie
Joan said:
I’m a consumer only and I’m not sure I understood everything I read but I was looking for information on Schwarzkopf products for the purpose of depositing color rather than lifting color. I have been using So-Color products and I had to change salons and they are using Schwarzkopf products. I would like to know how these two lines compare. I am going the lightest blonde with depositing rather than lifting if that helps you to understand the color direction I’m going. Thank you. jhtibbitts@yahoo.com
organichairproductreview said:
The lightest blond hardly has any deposit pigment in it.
I have not worked with So-Color, so I can’t really be a help to you. But the deposit-only color is typically very comparable between different lines.
Hope that helps,
Melanie
andre nizetich said:
Hi Melanie, Andre Nizetich here, what you are doing is very necessary for the salon industry. We have had many conversations about non ammonia haircolors compared to ammonia haircolors. I appreciate your dedication to finding the very best haircolors for those who find the need because of reactions to the established lines of ammonia haircolors. I admire greatly the dedication you have put forth in finding the very best of the non ammonia haircolor. My question is, what of us who use ammonia haircolor and have found absolutely no reason to change and have found success using the traditional haircolor lines. My challenge with your research is that non ammonia haircolor is more expensive and I am a skeptic when it comes to haircolor manufacturers and their need for more profit the working haircolorist be damned. All of the manufacturers are constantly seeking to boost their bottom line. The new CEO comes in to run the company and the first thing he wants to do is to raise prices or introduce a new product or an entire line of new products all of which are more expensive. I sound as though I am opposed to progress which is not the case. I love new products that are new and improved and make my job and the job of hairdressers easier and the hair of my clients look and feel better. Much of the time we get a new name or package and a higher price with no improvment in quality. As you know I have reviewed Olaplex as well. I was opposed to the CEO of the company stating on the package, “NEVER BREAK A CLIENTS HAIR AGAIN”. While the product is a new breakthrough in helping to maintain the condition of damaged hair it is not the “Holy Grail”. That was the point of my comparison. You should not have made such a statement on the package. There are just too many haircolorists who would take that term as “bible” and it is simply not true. Melanie, I like you have the hard working hairdresser in mind and are here to help them preserve their hard earned dollars. You go girl, keep up your hard work. We are proud to have you as an American Board of Certified Haircolorist member.
organichairproductreview said:
Thanks Andre, appreciate it! If you and your clients are happy with what you are doing, then keep doing it. I found it was better for my health, many clients health, and the condition of their hair to make a change. As far as price, I have found it to be cost effective. Many stylists charge higher prices for using the non-ammonia color to adjust for any higher expenses. It gives options for everyone.
Happy Hair Coloring,
Melanie